Getting Your Feet "Wet" With Wine – Don’t Be Afraid

Are you tired of feeling empty-handed or empty-headed when the waiter brings you a wine list? Wouldn't it be nice to scan down the list and identify not just the wines that would let the waiter (and your dining companion) know that you can't be fooled-with, but which might result in a really enjoyable meal or evening?

Snobbishness aside, there's not much to learning enough to make intelligent choices and enjoy yourself at the same time. You will find that the surprises in a bottle of "grape juice" can often far exceed expectations, and can lead to revelations that can add dimensions of pleasure and satisfaction to an evening that would otherwise have been only O.K.

First, decide what you like. Fruit? Sweetness? Gobs of grape, currant and other flavors that develop in the glass before you eyes and nose? The scents and tastes of subtle characteristics can amaze you. A single varietal can yield chocolate, mint, cedar, flint, melon, and limitless variations depending on the vineyard, the winemaker and the conditions under which the grapes matured. Did you know that there are wines that begin as one thing and evolve in minutes into something else entirely? The same grapes that yield dark purple fruit, on the palate can taste like nuts or roses as well.

First thing first.

The easiest way to start is to think about color. Whites tend to be light and "short" on after-taste and flavor, although some of the fullest-bodied and most expensive wines in the world are made from white varietals. That doesn't mean they're bad; it's just that the experience with most whites tends to be more fleeting and instantaneous than reds, which can take time to develop.

Reds can be "full forward," with gobs of fruit that jump out at you from the glass, or more subdued, that sit and "evolve" as they sit in the glass, an open bottle, or decanter.

There are amazing examples of each, and oddballs that don't fit any ordinary description. That is the intriguing quality that brings wine drinkers back to try new revelations, or to find old friends, that makes wine among the oldest and most satisfying of all foods.

Now, for the nitty-gritty:

For whites, go with the basic chardonnay grape. Ask the server for his or her recommendations; that's what they're being paid to do, after all. More often than not, an experienced server has tasted the wines on the list and is not inclined to recommend anything other than his or her favorite. Don't be afraid to set a price limit! Most restaurants will mark a wine up about 100% above the retail price, but keep in mind that this reflects the cost of storing and serving the wine at your convenience.

With a chardonnay, there are two basic types: the citrus-y, lighter drink that slips off the tongue and can leave a taste of melon, pineapple, or flint; and, the heavier, butter-filled glass that lingers long after you've swallowed. Both are best chilled and are typically at their best "young," that is, within just a few years of the vintage.

Reds, on the other hand, are generally considered "heavier," more complex, and full-bodied; although there are plenty of fantastic reds, such as Pinot Noir, that are not heavy on the palate at all, but bring nuanced flavors instead of an explosion of fruit and oak. Reds typically have aged for a few years so it is not unusual to have a vintage wine released 2, 3, or even 4 years after the date it was picked. Sometimes, "bottle age" is necessary for a red wine to develop to its fullest potential. Again, in a restaurant don't be afraid to ask for a recommendation.

But what if you want make the decision?

Here's a shorthand guide:

According to such authorities as Robert Parker and The Wine Spectator, most California reds were best in 2001, 2002, 2005, and 2003 and should still be on the market, although supplies are dwindling and you may have to hunt a little. I've tasted several and I agree; leaning to the 2002s, myself (mostly because of availability). Wine hunting is great fun and can be a learning experience in itself. Most liquor stores and wine shops have at least one "expert" who can guide you. These same authorities give high marks to the 2003, 2006 and 2005 French Rhones and Bordeaux. Unfortunately, the 2005s are so spectacular that they will cost you much more than the entirely adequate 2003 and 2006, if you can find them. Most top quality '05s were bought as "futures" before they were even released to the market.

Wine futures can be outstanding bargains if you are willing to buy without tasting and then wait 2 years for delivery. I've done it myself quite successfully. Wine I bought as a $26.00 "future" now sells for over $300.00 a bottle, if you can find it.

The whites of California have never been better than the 2005 and 2004 Chardonnay, but they may be difficult to find at this late date.

Recent releases from Washington and Oregon, typically reds, have been excellent.

South American and Australian growers are producing extraordinary wines at very reasonable prices. They are exceptional wine values. A 2005 or 2006 Australian Shiraz (made from the syrah grape) will likely please most red wine fans. Again, this may be a fleeting opportunity as these wines catch on in the marketplace. (One of the most expensive wines in the world is an Australian "Penfolds" shiraz)

If you see an Argentinean or Chilean 2004, 2005 or 2006 malbec, you will likely be pleasantly surprised. Some famous French and American vintners are now producing there, although native growers have done extremely well lately as well. If you see one on the wine list at dinner, go for it. You will not only enjoy the experience, you will be recognized as an innovator and insider.

French whites on your list will include Macon-Villages and Chambertin, although new varietals are being tried by many top producers. These are essentially chardonnay, but with character added by the growing region and climate, a combination known as "terroir. These growers vary from region to region, often only a few meters away from each other, but with subtle or sometimes striking differences, again depending on terroir and the grower.

Always be on the lookout for “Vin-de-Pays,” which is a term used for French “country wines” that are always inexpensive, usually ready to drink now, go with almost anything or by themselves as an ‘aperetif,’ and frequently well worth the money.

Once again, do not be afraid to ask a shop-keeper or your waiter: "What $20.00 white is best with bisque?" As with auto service, you will likely benefit from advice from someone who's been there and done that; seen, tasted and sold the wines you have to choose from. Remember, they want you come back and buy more!

After dinner, try a glass of "port" wine. Originally from Portugal, the name has now become generic for many "fortified" red wines. These are wines that have a higher sugar and alcohol level and can develop for decades in the bottle. One of my favorites is an Australian port, made by Yalumba, and called "Galway Pipe." You will be amazed that a grape can be made to taste like that!

To gain confidence, you may want to consider the vintage rating systems developed by such authorities as "The Wine Advocate" (http://www.winespectator.com/) or Robert Parker (http://www.erobertparker.com)/." Write down their top-rated vintages, compare them, and go hunting. Enjoy!